Hispania waves the rules

[April 25, Spain]

In Gibraltar Britannia still rules the waves, but we find often that Hispania waves the rules. Here is an example: our hotel room is designated strictly non-smoking, but just in case, the hotelier provides an ashtray. Similarly, our guidebook advises us in busses to always ask for non-smoking seats, with the observation "it doesn't do any good, but at least it's a statement". Nor are only tobacco-related rules flexible. In a private house museum our guide informs us that photos are not allowed and then adds, "but if you want to take some, it's OK." And similar ambivalence is observed in driving, parking, etc.

We have seen this phenomenon in other countries, and conclude that it may well be a Catholic characteristic. Steeped in Augustinian pessimism about human nature, they accept the breaking of minor rules as routine accretions to our Original Sin. And from the point of view of the Church or the traffic cop, it's probably good for business to allow minor sins that must be absolved or paid off.

Saint James kicks butt

[April 9, Santiago de Compostela]



An armored warrior on horseback, wielding sword and hacking Moors, is not what normally comet to mind when one thinks of a saint. But Saint James, is not your typical contemplative. His remains were "discovered" in the 9th century, when the Christian forces were at a low ebb against the occupying Moors. His role at the time was to rally men at arms rather than souls.

Today, his martial image is somewhat embarrassing to a Spain that prefers dialogue with Islam rather than confrontation, at least among the politically correct. But we suspect that many take a secret pride in the memory of Santiago Matamoros (Saint James, the Moor Slayer) .

Coimbra 3 -- The Dog Killers

[April 5, Coimbra}

Descending from the university we pass

the old cathedral, built while the Moors were still making nuisances of themselves in the neighborhood, looks (and is) a fortress.