We show this rather poor photo shot from a window of a moving train for two reasons:Tuesday, April 08, 2008
The rain in Spain falls mainly on the plan
[April 8, en route Santiago de Compostela]
We show this rather poor photo shot from a window of a moving train for two reasons:
We show this rather poor photo shot from a window of a moving train for two reasons:
Asynchronous posting
If you check this blog every day (and if so, please get a life!), you may notice that articles sometimes show up in arrears.
Nobody expects the Spanish Inquisition
We expected that crossing the border from Portugal to Spain by train would be a non-event. In fact, the Spanish are particular about who enters. Perhaps a lingering effect of the 2004 Madrid bombings, or perhaps it's just the Spanish way. The train stopped at the border, and Spanish immigration police boarded to check papers. We were disturbed when the officers showed unusual interest in our passports, discussing them among themselves and radioing back and forth to a central authority.
Monday, April 07, 2008
Porto 3: Port in a storm
[April 7, Porto]
The name of the fortified wine port comes from Porto. The process of making port was discovered somewhat accidentally, by the need to add brandy in order to stabilize wine for shipping long distance. The British found that the necessity was in fact a virtue and have loved port ever since. British names (Taylor, Croft, etc) still dominate the industry.
Sunday, April 06, 2008
Porto 2: On the waterfront
[April 6, Porto]
The most scenic part of Porto is the river "Ribeiera" district. It is the old working waterfront where from the 14th century flat-bottomed river boats brought wine and other goods were brought down the Douro to ship away. Once bustling, gritty, and commercial, it is now bustling, touristy, and commercial. And delightfully picturesque.
I have seen Porto, and it works
[April 6, Porto]
Porto is "the city that works", priding itself on a gritty and workmanlike attitude. The local saying is "Coimbra studies, Braga prays, Lisbon parties, and Porto works". Thus its attitude appeals to these two travelers from the working city of Houston . It also has a more "Atlantic" weather, and as you will see from some of the photos, rain and clouds are common.
Porto is "the city that works", priding itself on a gritty and workmanlike attitude. The local saying is "Coimbra studies, Braga prays, Lisbon parties, and Porto works". Thus its attitude appeals to these two travelers from the working city of Houston . It also has a more "Atlantic" weather, and as you will see from some of the photos, rain and clouds are common.
Saturday, April 05, 2008
How green is my soup
[April 5, Coimbra]
Little by little we are trying the Portuguese cuisine. It is not always a success. A few days ago Bettie had salted cod, and I had a curried chicken (the Goan connection, you know). The curry was instantly forgettable, and Bettie's cod was vividly memorable, but for the all wrong reasons.
But today we tried something worth repeating: Caldo Verde. a green soup of kale and potato puree. Fairly good in a soul-food sort of way. We also tried the local Coimbra pastry "pastel de Tentugal"; it made us long for Belem and pastel de nata.
Little by little we are trying the Portuguese cuisine. It is not always a success. A few days ago Bettie had salted cod, and I had a curried chicken (the Goan connection, you know). The curry was instantly forgettable, and Bettie's cod was vividly memorable, but for the all wrong reasons.
But today we tried something worth repeating: Caldo Verde. a green soup of kale and potato puree. Fairly good in a soul-food sort of way. We also tried the local Coimbra pastry "pastel de Tentugal"; it made us long for Belem and pastel de nata.
Coimbra 3 -- The Dog Killers
[April 5, Coimbra}
Descending from the university we pass
the old cathedral, built while the Moors were still making nuisances of themselves in the neighborhood, looks (and is) a fortress.
Descending from the university we pass
the old cathedral, built while the Moors were still making nuisances of themselves in the neighborhood, looks (and is) a fortress.Coimbra 2 -- The Gown
[April 5, Coimbra]
The University of Coimbra is atop a steep hill. Some walk; the wimps take the elevator, and enjoy
The University of Coimbra is atop a steep hill. Some walk; the wimps take the elevator, and enjoyCoimbra 1 -- The Town
[April 5, Coimbra]
Today is a little cooler, and our itinerary takes us away from the noisy traffic into the ancient parts of the city. Coimbra has been a university town for over 700 years, and before that it figured in the struggle between Moors and Christians, changing hands several times. With improving fortunes of the Christian reconquest, Coimbra became the capital of the first true kings of a united Portugal.
Today is a little cooler, and our itinerary takes us away from the noisy traffic into the ancient parts of the city. Coimbra has been a university town for over 700 years, and before that it figured in the struggle between Moors and Christians, changing hands several times. With improving fortunes of the Christian reconquest, Coimbra became the capital of the first true kings of a united Portugal.
Friday, April 04, 2008
Coimbra is hot but the Guinness is cold
[April 4, Coimbra]
The train from Lisbon was efficient and pleasant, except for the seriously dirty window that inhibited seeing the countryside. Our first impression of Coimbra was not favorable. Our hotel (Ibis) is located on a busy street, and though Coimbra is smaller than Lisbon, it seems strangely hectic and stressful. The heat is stifling, and yet our hotelier has determined that it is not yet hot enough in the year to provide air conditioning; we disagree. We walked around for a bit to orient ourselves then staggered into an “Irish Pub” for some Guinness and a cheeseburger; this was no time for culinary experimentation.
The train from Lisbon was efficient and pleasant, except for the seriously dirty window that inhibited seeing the countryside. Our first impression of Coimbra was not favorable. Our hotel (Ibis) is located on a busy street, and though Coimbra is smaller than Lisbon, it seems strangely hectic and stressful. The heat is stifling, and yet our hotelier has determined that it is not yet hot enough in the year to provide air conditioning; we disagree. We walked around for a bit to orient ourselves then staggered into an “Irish Pub” for some Guinness and a cheeseburger; this was no time for culinary experimentation.
Thursday, April 03, 2008
Sintra and castlemania
[April 3, Sintra]
Today we took a side trip to Sintra, about 30 minutes by train from Lisbon. Sintra was the get-away spot for Portugal's royals from 15th-19th centuries. (The royals themselves were gotten away with in the 20th century). There are two castle/palaces in Sintra, one very old and one less so, and each a marvel. The interiors are filled with breathtaking azulejos and period furnishings. Regrettably, the modern day castellans forbid photography inside, so we can only offer these snaps of the exteriors.
Today we took a side trip to Sintra, about 30 minutes by train from Lisbon. Sintra was the get-away spot for Portugal's royals from 15th-19th centuries. (The royals themselves were gotten away with in the 20th century). There are two castle/palaces in Sintra, one very old and one less so, and each a marvel. The interiors are filled with breathtaking azulejos and period furnishings. Regrettably, the modern day castellans forbid photography inside, so we can only offer these snaps of the exteriors.
Wednesday, April 02, 2008
Big Mac Arbitrage
[April 2, Lisbon]
So where is the beef?
A principle (observed somewhat approximately) of economics is "purchasing power parity". The idea is that after converting for foreign exchange rates, a given amount of money should buy the same amount of the same items, in all countries.
So where is the beef?
A principle (observed somewhat approximately) of economics is "purchasing power parity". The idea is that after converting for foreign exchange rates, a given amount of money should buy the same amount of the same items, in all countries.
All tarted up
[April 2, Lisbon (Belem)]
(Photo from wikipedia)
Not the voyages of Vasco da Gama, not the naval science of Henry the Navigator, not the discovery of Brazil. The signal achievement that ranks Portugal among the foremost of nations is ...
(Photo from wikipedia)
Not the voyages of Vasco da Gama, not the naval science of Henry the Navigator, not the discovery of Brazil. The signal achievement that ranks Portugal among the foremost of nations is ...
Lindbergh wasn't the first
[April 2, Lisbon (Belem)]
Lindbergh was not the first to cross the Atlantic in a plane.
Tuesday, April 01, 2008
Piles of tiles
[April 1, Lisbon]
We skipped the more famous and doubtlessly worthy Gulbekian art museum, and sought out things distinctive of Lisbon and Portugal. In the Alfama district, the Fundacao Ricardo do Espirito Santo Silva museum and the National Tile Museum showcase Portugal's ceramic tile art.
We skipped the more famous and doubtlessly worthy Gulbekian art museum, and sought out things distinctive of Lisbon and Portugal. In the Alfama district, the Fundacao Ricardo do Espirito Santo Silva museum and the National Tile Museum showcase Portugal's ceramic tile art.Castelo and Alfama
[April 1, Lisbon]
Sao Jorge castle
was built in the 8th century by the Moors, but then completely rebuilt by Salazar in the 20th century. It is not particularly attractive or impressive in itself,
Sao Jorge castle
was built in the 8th century by the Moors, but then completely rebuilt by Salazar in the 20th century. It is not particularly attractive or impressive in itself,Baixa
[April 1, Lisbon]
Today we walked the Baixa, the historic axis of Lisbon from Rossio square (pictured left) to the harbor. It is surprising how manageable the city is to the pedestrian, and how tame is the traffic. The noise in below threshold of pain, and the act of crossing streets is no more suicidal than in Houston. Such is not our experience with certain other Mediterranean capitals.
Today we walked the Baixa, the historic axis of Lisbon from Rossio square (pictured left) to the harbor. It is surprising how manageable the city is to the pedestrian, and how tame is the traffic. The noise in below threshold of pain, and the act of crossing streets is no more suicidal than in Houston. Such is not our experience with certain other Mediterranean capitals.Monday, March 31, 2008
Day 1 & 2 -- Lisbon
[March 30 & 31, Lisbon]
Our arrival did not auger well. The chaos and disorganization of the Lisbon airport rivals that of Delhi's in 1990. Two hours waiting to get through immigration. Tired tourists uniting to resist pushy Nigerians trying to break in line. Lots of fun.
Our arrival did not auger well. The chaos and disorganization of the Lisbon airport rivals that of Delhi's in 1990. Two hours waiting to get through immigration. Tired tourists uniting to resist pushy Nigerians trying to break in line. Lots of fun.
Beginning Tayara Travels
Here we undertake a blog to document our travels, in near real time. We'll begin with the present trip (Portugal & Spain), and perhaps in the future we will back-fill previous trips.
We'll try to update the blog as the our trip proceeds, time and Internet connections permitting.
We'll try to update the blog as the our trip proceeds, time and Internet connections permitting.
Saturday, October 01, 2005
Older stuff on this blog
I began this blog during a trip to Easter Europe in 2005 and abandoned it for technical reasons. I'm keeping the few posts from that trip for reference.
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