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| 2008-PortS |
Thursday, April 17, 2008
Every man did his duty
[April 17, Gibraltar]
We often visit old cemeteries on our travels, both for the historic significance and for the poignant contemplation of lives gone by.
Britannia rules the waves
[April 17, Gibraltar]
A bit of the Iberian peninsula remains staunchly a part of the Commonwealth, in spite of Spain's persistent and petty pestering to "give it back". Our driver, a 4th generation Gibraltarian, told us, "We've seen what it is like on the other side [Spain], and we like it the way it is."
Wednesday, April 16, 2008
What bull
[April 16, Ronda]
Ronda is the home of modern bull-fighting, a creation of Francisco Romero in the early 1700's. The Ronda style is classic, pure, severe -- not like the flamboyant show-boats of Sevilla.
Juan Bosco doesn't live here anymore
[April 16, Ronda]
In Ronda we find the House of Don Bosco. Saint Juan Bosco was the founder of the Salesian order. This house is gorgeously beatific, but the saint never lived in it, or even visited it. It was a charitable contribution by a resident of Ronda to the religious order, meant as a retirement home for priests.
In Ronda we find the House of Don Bosco. Saint Juan Bosco was the founder of the Salesian order. This house is gorgeously beatific, but the saint never lived in it, or even visited it. It was a charitable contribution by a resident of Ronda to the religious order, meant as a retirement home for priests.Moor is more
[April 16, Ronda]
The Modragon Palace was the 14th c. home of the Moorish kings pre-reconquista, and gives some idea of the graceful lifestyle they enjoyed.
A church unmosqued
[April 16, Ronda]
The Christian reconquistas, after a good siege and sack of a Moorish stronghold, loved nothing more than to press home their point by building a cathedral on the ruins of a mosque. Santa Maria la Mayor shows something of its former occupant in its ground plan and tower (former minaret),
Tuesday, April 15, 2008
Ronda rough and rugged rock the ragged rascals ran
{April 15, Ronda]
Ronda [map] is one of Andalucia's "white towns", whitewashed hill towns with roots back to Moorish times. These lay along the frontier of the Reconquista, changing hands from Moors to Christians (and sometimes back again), and a culture reflecting both heritages. In visual aspect, and with flamenco, bullfights, and gazpacho, they are the quintessential "Spain" to many people.
Monday, April 14, 2008
Sunday, April 13, 2008
Sloth in Salema
[April 12, Salema]
Salema is one of the few places on the Algarve coasts that can still be described as a "fishing village". Tourism is encroaching, condos and golf clubs nibble around the edges, but some people here do fish. It is a charming, no-pressure place to enjoy the ocean, a bit of fresh seafood, and do absolutely nothing. A "vacation from your vacation".
A vehicle of Note
For this trip we have rented a Nissan "Note". Quite a good car. It is bigger than it looks and holds it own on the autovia at 120km/hr. It has modestly high clearance, a useful characteristic on some of the tertiary roads we traveled.
The End of the World
[April 13, Sagres]
Cape Sagres, as this aerial photo shows, juts into the Atlantic Ocean, forms the most extreme southwest point of Europe. Even in pre-Roman times it was known as "the end of the world". Here in the 15th century Henry the Navigator established a school/ think-tank/ research institute for navigation. Though he died (1460) before Portuguese sailors made their greatest discoveries, his farsighted efforts ensured that it was the West that discovered the East, rather than the other way around.
Friday, April 11, 2008
Life is the berries
[April 11, Obidos]
Ginjinha is a spirit unique to Portugal, a sort of fruit brandy made from the sour-cherry-like ginja berry. It is readily available in Lisbon, but for some reason Obidos enthusiastically features it. We were advised to seek it at
Ginjinha is a spirit unique to Portugal, a sort of fruit brandy made from the sour-cherry-like ginja berry. It is readily available in Lisbon, but for some reason Obidos enthusiastically features it. We were advised to seek it attill Birnam wood Do come to Dunsinane
[April 11, Obidos]
Obidos is a postcard-ready medieval (14th c.) castle town near Nazare. Our guidebook characterizes it as "ideal for photographers who want to make Portugal look prettier than it is". It has changed hands several times, including Celts, Romans, Visigoths, Moors, Portuguese, and recently, tourists.
Obidos is a postcard-ready medieval (14th c.) castle town near Nazare. Our guidebook characterizes it as "ideal for photographers who want to make Portugal look prettier than it is". It has changed hands several times, including Celts, Romans, Visigoths, Moors, Portuguese, and recently, tourists. 
A good barnacle, but not a great barnacle
[April 11, Nazare]
Portugal is the land of seafood, and sometimes surprisingly so. We were advised that the local dish of percebes (boiled barnacles) was a must-eat delicacy. The barnacles are harvested (we were told) at personal peril from wave-swept rocks, by fishermen secured by life lines to prevent certain death.
Portugal is the land of seafood, and sometimes surprisingly so. We were advised that the local dish of percebes (boiled barnacles) was a must-eat delicacy. The barnacles are harvested (we were told) at personal peril from wave-swept rocks, by fishermen secured by life lines to prevent certain death.Thursday, April 10, 2008
An unlucky deer
[April 10, Nazare]
Nazare is a sea-side resort, a former fishing village but now devoted to gentle pleasuring.
Wednesday, April 09, 2008
A beatific vision in Santiago
[April 9, Santiago de Compostela]
Many are called to pilgrimage to Santiago, seeking spiritual regeneration, redemption, or transcendence. Each pilgrim finds his own balm for the soul; we found ours in Restaurante Iacobus.
Pimientos Rellenos: mild peppers stuffed with a spiced potato filling, in a tomato-cream sauce.
Many are called to pilgrimage to Santiago, seeking spiritual regeneration, redemption, or transcendence. Each pilgrim finds his own balm for the soul; we found ours in Restaurante Iacobus.
Pimientos Rellenos: mild peppers stuffed with a spiced potato filling, in a tomato-cream sauce.Saint James kicks butt
[April 9, Santiago de Compostela]
An armored warrior on horseback, wielding sword and hacking Moors, is not what normally comet to mind when one thinks of a saint. But Saint James, is not your typical contemplative. His remains were "discovered" in the 9th century, when the Christian forces were at a low ebb against the occupying Moors. His role at the time was to rally men at arms rather than souls.
Today, his martial image is somewhat embarrassing to a Spain that prefers dialogue with Islam rather than confrontation, at least among the politically correct. But we suspect that many take a secret pride in the memory of Santiago Matamoros (Saint James, the Moor Slayer) .
An armored warrior on horseback, wielding sword and hacking Moors, is not what normally comet to mind when one thinks of a saint. But Saint James, is not your typical contemplative. His remains were "discovered" in the 9th century, when the Christian forces were at a low ebb against the occupying Moors. His role at the time was to rally men at arms rather than souls.
Today, his martial image is somewhat embarrassing to a Spain that prefers dialogue with Islam rather than confrontation, at least among the politically correct. But we suspect that many take a secret pride in the memory of Santiago Matamoros (Saint James, the Moor Slayer) .Why is this man smiling?
[April 9, Santiago de Compostela]
This image of the prophet Daniel, in the cathedral of Santiago, is staring directly at a statue of a buxom lady, across the vestibule of the church.
This image of the prophet Daniel, in the cathedral of Santiago, is staring directly at a statue of a buxom lady, across the vestibule of the church.
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